MOON OF QIN

11.11 – 11.18

New York · Beijing · Xi'an · the Wall — after Wang Changling's 「秦时明月汉时关」

DAY 1 · 2026-11-11 · New York → in the air

Wheels Up

Departure

JFK T1 →Korean Air 00:50→ Seoul ICN →connect→ Beijing PEK (lands 09:25 on the 12th)

walk ≈1.0 km

21:00 (Nov 10)
Leave Manhattan for JFK — AirTrain + LIRR, or a car. A 00:50 departure means you check in on the evening of the 10th.pinned
22:00-00:50
JFK Terminal 1 — check in, clear security. Last chance to install the eSIM profile, Alipay and a VPN while you are still outside the Great Firewall.pinned
00:50-09:25+1est
Korean Air JFK → Seoul ICN → Beijing PEK · ~19 h 35 total incl. connection
walk ≈1.0 km terminal walking only
rain plan none needed — the whole day is indoors
if running late missed the 00:50 departure → Korean Air rebooks onto the next ICN service; the Xi'an train on day 2 is the piece to move, and 12306 lets you change it in-app.

DAY 2 · 2026-11-12 · Beijing → Xi'an

Land & Rail

Landing, and straight onto the rails

PEK T3 →car 75′→ 北京西 →G-train ~4h30→ 西安北 →metro L2 30′→ 南院门 hotel →walk 13′→ 回民街

dawn 06:26 · 06:53 / 17:01 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org walk ≈3.4 km

09:25-10:45
Land PEK Terminal 3 · immigration (fingerprints for first-time entrants), bags, customspinned
10:45-12:15est
Car PEK T3 → Beijing West Railway Station 北京西 · ~55 km · 65-90 min · ¥130-170
12:15-14:00
Beijing West — passport gate (orange lane, tap the passport), lunch inside the station, find the waiting hallpinned
14:00-18:40est
G-train 北京西 → 西安北 · ~4 h 30 · ¥515.5 second class
18:40-19:20est
Metro Line 2 西安北 → 南院门 (Bell Tower stn, 1 block) · ~30 min · ¥5
19:20-20:00
Hotel check-in, drop the bag, wash your facepinned
20:00-21:30est
Walk 南院门 → 回民街 Muslim Quarter · 0.9 km · 13 min — the first meal: roujiamo, biangbiang noodles, persimmon cakesoptional
21:30
Muslim Quarter — eat standing up, then walk back past the lit Drum Tower. Bed early; tomorrow starts at 08:00. ¥60-100swap→hotel-area noodles if you are past it
walk ≈3.4 km airport + stations 1.4 ×1.3 + Muslim Quarter stroll 1.6
rain plan the whole day is a corridor — rain changes nothing except taking the metro instead of walking the last 600 m
if running late flight lands late → do NOT sprint. Change the G-ticket in the 12306 app to any later departure (they run to 19:00); worst case sleep in Beijing and take the 06:38 tomorrow, dropping Huaqing Palace from day 3.
Maps along the way

Map loading… (needs a connection; offline, use the links below)

DAY 3 · 2026-11-13 · Xi'an

Buried Army

The Qin emperor's army

南院门 →bus 游5 70′→ 秦始皇帝陵博物院 →walk 8′→ food street →shuttle 20′→ 华清宫 →bus 65′→ 南院门

dawn 06:48 · 07:13 / 17:43 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org walk ≈6.2 km

07:30-08:00
Hotel breakfast. Pack the passport — it is checked at the museum gate, not just at booking.pinned
08:00-09:20est
Bus 游5 (306) from the station east square → 秦始皇帝陵博物院 · ~70 min · ¥8
09:20-12:30
Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum 秦始皇帝陵博物院 — Pit 1 (the army), Pit 3 (the command post), Pit 2 (the kneeling archer), then the Bronze Chariots hall ¥120go first
12:30-12:40est
Walk 秦始皇帝陵博物院 → 兵马俑小吃街 food street · 0.5 km · 8 min
12:30-13:30
Lunch — the food street outside the museum gate · noodles and roujiamo, tourist-priced but fine ¥40-70swap→eat in the Muslim Quarter tonight instead
13:30-14:00est
Shuttle bus 兵马俑 → 华清宫 · 6 km · ~20 min · ¥5
14:00-15:45
Huaqing Palace 华清宫 — the Tang imperial hot springs, the Xi'an Incident rooms on the hillside behind ¥120optional
15:45-16:50est
Bus 游5 (306) 华清宫 → 南院门 (via Xi'an station) · ~65 min · ¥7
17:00-18:00
Back at the hotel — shower, reset. Sunset is 17:43 and it gets cold fast.
18:30-20:00
Dinner around the Bell Tower / 东木头市 · dumplings, yangrou paomo · a local street, not the tourist one ¥50-90
walk ≈6.2 km inside the three pits ~3.0 + Lishan Garden 1.0 + Huaqing Palace grounds 1.6 + station walks 0.5 ×1.3
rain plan Pit 1 and Pit 3 are fully roofed; the walk between pits is covered. If it turns wet, cut Huaqing Palace (mostly outdoor gardens) and take the Shaanxi History Museum slot from tomorrow instead.
if running late running >1 h late → drop Huaqing Palace, not the museum. Getting back before dark matters more than the Tang bathing pools.
Maps along the way

Map loading… (needs a connection; offline, use the links below)

DAY 4 · 2026-11-14 · Xi'an

Wall & Pagoda

On the wall, under the pagoda

南院门 →walk 13′→ 永宁门 (ride the 13.7 km loop) →metro→ 回民街 lunch →metro 35′→ 陕西历史博物馆 →walk 18′→ 大雁塔 →walk 9′→ 大唐不夜城 →metro 25′→ 南院门

dawn 06:49 · 07:14 / 17:42 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org walk ≈6.0 km

08:00-08:20est
Walk 南院门 → 永宁门 City Wall South Gate · 0.9 km · 13 min
08:20-10:40
Xi'an City Wall 西安城墙 — ride the full 13.7 km circuit on a rental bike, anticlockwise from the South Gate ¥54 admission + ¥45 bike (3 h, ¥200 deposit)go first
10:40-11:10est
Metro Line 2 永宁门 → 回民街 (Bell Tower stn + 600 m walk) · ~25 min · ¥2
11:10-12:40
Lunch, Muslim Quarter 回民街 + 化觉巷 — the alley behind the Great Mosque is where locals eat ¥50-90
12:40-13:20est
Metro Line 2 回民街 → 陕西历史博物馆 (钟楼→小寨 + walk) · ~35 min · ¥3
13:20-15:30
Shaanxi History Museum 陕西历史博物馆 — the Zhou/Qin/Han/Tang galleries; the Tang mural hall is a separate paid ticket free (reservation required); Tang murals ¥300swap→Xi'an Museum 小雁塔 (free, no booking fight)
15:30-15:50est
Walk 陕西历史博物馆 → 大雁塔 · 1.2 km · 18 min
15:50-17:10
Big Wild Goose Pagoda 大雁塔 / Da Ci'en Temple — the Tang pagoda Xuanzang built to house the sutras he carried back from India; climb it for the sunset over the Tang city grid ¥40 temple + ¥30 to climbpinned
17:10-17:20est
Walk 大雁塔 → 大唐不夜城 Datang Everbright City · 0.6 km · 9 min
17:20-19:30
Datang Everbright City 大唐不夜城 at dusk — a free open-air Tang-revival street, lit from ~17:30, with street performers and the food arcades off the main axis freeoptional
19:30-20:30
Dinner in the Datang arcades or back at 永兴坊 · Shaanxi small plates ¥60-100
20:30-20:55est
Metro Line 2/3 大唐不夜城 → 南院门 · ~25 min · ¥3
walk ≈6.0 km hotel→South Gate 1.3 + museum→pagoda 1.2 + pagoda→Everbright 0.6 ×1.3 + inside the museum 1.5 + on the wall 0.5 (the 13.7 km loop is ridden, not walked)
rain plan the wall is exposed and the bikes stop in rain — swap it for Xi'an Museum / Small Wild Goose Pagoda 小雁塔 (free, open Sat, closed Tue) and give the pagoda district the whole afternoon.
if running late running late → ride only the south-to-west quarter of the wall (45 min) instead of the full loop; the museum's last admission is the hard stop.
Maps along the way · hop-by-hop ×1

Map loading… (needs a connection; offline, use the links below)

DAY 5 · 2026-11-15 · Xi'an → Beijing

North Again

North again, and a circle of blue tiles

南院门 →metro 35′→ 西安北 →G-train ~4h30→ 北京西 →metro 35′→ 鲜鱼口 hotel →metro 25′→ 天坛东门 →walk/metro 25′→ 前门大街

dawn 06:50 · 07:15 / 17:41 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org walk ≈4.6 km

07:30-08:10est
Checkout, metro Line 2 南院门 → 西安北 · ~35 min · ¥5pinned
08:10-09:00
Xi'an North — passport gate, waiting hall, coffeepinned
09:00-13:35est
G-train 西安北 → 北京西 · ~4 h 30 · ¥515.5 second class
13:35-14:30est
Metro Line 9 → Line 7 北京西 → 鲜鱼口 · ~35 min · ¥5
14:30-15:10
Hotel check-in, drop the bagpinned
15:10-15:35est
Metro/foot 鲜鱼口 → 天坛东门 Temple of Heaven East Gate · ~25 min · ¥3
15:35-17:00
Temple of Heaven 天坛 — the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the Echo Wall, the Circular Mound Altar, walked north to south down the raised causeway ¥15 park + ¥28 through-ticket (all three monuments)pinned
17:00-17:30est
Walk out of the park's west gate → 前门大街 Qianmen Street · ~25 min
17:30-19:30
Qianmen Street 前门大街 and the Dashilan 大栅栏 lanes — the restored Qing shopfront street, the old lanes behind it, and roast duck for dinner ¥120-200 for duckoptional
walk ≈4.6 km Temple of Heaven park axis 2.6 + Qianmen / Dashilan 1.2 ×1.3 + station walks 0.3
rain plan the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests is outdoors — swap the Temple of Heaven for the National Museum of China on Tiananmen Square (free, reservation required, closed Mondays) and keep the Qianmen evening.
if running late train late → drop the Temple of Heaven entirely (attractions shut at 17:00) and spend the evening on Qianmen and Dashilan instead; the park is a fine morning substitute on day 7 if you skip Jingshan.
Maps along the way

Map loading… (needs a connection; offline, use the links below)

DAY 6 · 2026-11-16 · Beijing

Great Wall

The wall, on a Monday

鲜鱼口 →metro 30′→ 东直门 →coach 100′→ 慕田峪 →shuttle+cable car→ 14号敌楼 →walk 35′→ 正关台 →toboggan→ 慕田峪村 →coach 120′→ 鲜鱼口

dawn 06:31 · 06:58 / 16:59 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org walk ≈5.4 km

06:45-07:30est
Early breakfast, metro Line 2 鲜鱼口 → 东直门 Dongzhimen · ~30 min · ¥4pinned
07:30-09:20est
Coach 东直门 → 慕田峪游客中心 Mutianyu · ~90-110 min · ≈¥60 return
09:20-09:50est
慕田峪游客中心 → 14号敌楼 Tower 14 — passport ticket check, shuttle bus, cable car up · ~30 min ¥45 entry + ¥15 shuttle + ¥140 cable car return / ¥120 up + toboggan down
09:50-11:20
Mutianyu Great Wall 慕田峪长城 — Tower 14 and the restored western ramparts, the forested Huairou ridge dropping away on both sides included abovego first
11:20-11:55est
Walk the ramparts 14号敌楼 → 正关台 Tower 20 · 0.9 km of steps · 35 min
11:55-13:15
Zhengguantai 正关台 — the three-tower crown at the top of the restored section, then back down the wall westward included aboveoptional
13:15-13:35est
Toboggan 滑道 正关台 → 慕田峪村 base village (or the cable car if it is icy) · ~20 min
13:35-14:40
Late lunch at the Mutianyu base village — trout, farm greens, hand-pulled noodles ¥60-120
14:40-16:40est
Coach 慕田峪村 → 鲜鱼口 (via Dongzhimen) · ~2 h
17:00-18:00
Back at the hotel — feet up. The wall is a 20,000-step day even when the map says 5 km.
18:30-20:00
Dinner on Gui Jie 簋街 (Dongzhimennei Dajie) — the all-night food street: crayfish, hotpot, grilled fish ¥80-150swap→Qianmen/Dashilan if you cannot face another metro ride
walk ≈5.4 km wall towers 14→20 and back down to the toboggan 2.6 + base street and stairs 1.5 ×1.3 (the cable car up and the toboggan down are ridden)
rain plan the cable car and toboggan shut in high wind or ice. Wet-day swap: the Summer Palace 颐和园 (¥30, corridors and halls are covered) plus the 798 art district — both indoor-ish and both open Mondays.
if running late on the wall past 14:30 → skip Tower 20 and take the cable car back down from Tower 14 rather than the toboggan; the last cable car is 17:00 and the last coach out is earlier than you think.
Maps along the way

Map loading… (needs a connection; offline, use the links below)

DAY 7 · 2026-11-17 · Beijing

Imperial Axis

Down the imperial axis

鲜鱼口 →walk 16′→ 天安门广场 →walk 12′→ 午门 →walk the axis→ 神武门 →walk 10′→ 景山万春亭 →taxi 20′→ 银锭桥 →walk→ 鼓楼

dawn 06:32 · 06:59 / 16:58 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org walk ≈7.6 km

07:45-08:15est
Walk 鲜鱼口 → 天安门广场 Tiananmen Square · 1.1 km · 16 min · security check at the square's south entrance
08:15-09:15
Tiananmen Square 天安门广场 — the square, Tiananmen Gate, the Monument to the People's Heroes, the Great Hall of the People from outside free, advance real-name reservation required ⚠️go first
09:15-09:30est
Walk 天安门广场 → 午门 Meridian Gate · 0.6 km · 12 min
09:30-11:15
The Forbidden City 故宫 — in at the Meridian Gate, then the outer court: the Gate of Supreme Harmony and the three great halls straight down the axis ¥40 (off-season) + ¥10 Treasure Gallerypinned
11:15-11:30est
Walk the imperial axis 午门 → 神武门 · 1.3 km inside the walls · no doubling back, the gates are one-way
11:30-12:45
The inner court and the eastern palaces — the Palace of Heavenly Purity, the Treasure Gallery and the Nine-Dragon Screen, out through the Gate of Divine Might ¥10 Treasure Gallery (on top of the ¥40 entry)pinned
12:45-13:00est
Walk 神武门 → 景山万春亭 Jingshan (south gate + the climb) · 0.6 km · 10 min
13:00-13:45
Lunch — the small restaurants on Jingshan Qianjie and Wusi Dajie · jianbing, noodles, a courtyard cafe ¥40-80
13:45-15:00
Jingshan Park 景山公园 — climb the coal hill to the Wanchun Pavilion for the only free view down the whole golden-roofed axis you just walked ¥2pinned
15:00-15:25est
Taxi/metro 景山万春亭 → 银锭桥 Silver Ingot Bridge · 1.2 km · ~20 min
15:25-16:55
Shichahai / Houhai 后海 — the lake ring, the Silver Ingot Bridge, then Yandai Xiejie 烟袋斜街 into the Drum Tower hutongs at sunset (16:58) freeoptional
16:55-17:15est
Walk 银锭桥 → 烟袋斜街 → 鼓楼 Drum Tower · 0.4 km
18:00-19:30
Last dinner — the hutong restaurants around the Drum Tower / Nanluoguxiang's side lanes (avoid the main drag) ¥80-140
walk ≈7.6 km square→Meridian Gate→Divine Might Gate→Jingshan 3.9 ×1.3 + wandering inside the palace 2.0 + Shichahai and Yandai Xiejie 0.5
rain plan the palace's three great halls are all outdoor courtyards. Wet day: stay inside the Treasure Gallery and the Clock Gallery (both inside the palace, small extra fee), then Beihai Park's Round City, then the National Museum of China.
if running late the palace's last entry is the hard wall — everything after Jingshan is cuttable. Cut Shichahai first, then Jingshan.
Maps along the way · hop-by-hop ×1

Map loading… (needs a connection; offline, use the links below)

DAY 8 · 2026-11-18 · Beijing → New York

Homeward

Homeward

鲜鱼口 →Airport Express / car 75′→ PEK T3 →Korean Air→ Seoul ICN →→ JFK (same calendar day)

dawn 06:33 · 07:00 / 16:58 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org walk ≈1.2 km

T-4h15
Leave the hotel. The formula, not a guessed clock time: departure minus 3 h international check-in minus 75 min door-to-terminal.pinned
T-3h45 → T-3hest
Metro Line 2 鲜鱼口 → 东直门, Airport Express → 首都机场 T3 · ~65 min · ¥30. With bags a car is ¥130-170 and 60-80 min — but the airport road jams hard 06:00-09:00 and 16:00-19:00.
T-3h → T-0
PEK Terminal 3 — check in, departure card/exit immigration, security. Spend the last of your Alipay balance airside; it does not travel home with you.pinned
dep → arrest
Korean Air PEK → Seoul ICN → JFK · lands in New York the SAME calendar day (you gain the 13 h back crossing the date line)
walk ≈1.2 km hotel to metro + terminal walking
rain plan none needed
if running late if the departure is after 15:00, the Temple of Heaven park (06:30 open, ¥15) or Beihai Park fits before you leave — both are 20 min from Qianmen and neither needs a booking.
Maps along the way

Map loading… (needs a connection; offline, use the links below)

Flights & legs

2026-11-11 JFK → PEKinternational flight · Korean Air (via Seoul ICN) · 00:50→next day 09:25 (Beijing) · $983 round trip incl. the 2026-11-18 return (Google Flights cache, as of 2026-08-15 — comparison grade, confirm at the link) · 1 × 23 kg checked included on Korean Air transpacific economy ⚠️ verify fare-class at booking check price
backup

Air China nonstop JFK→PEK (~13 h 50) — shorter and no Seoul transfer, price unverified; also compare Beijing Daxing (PKX) arrivals, but PKX adds ~40 min to the city.

2026-11-12 Beijing West 北京西 → Xi'an North 西安北high-speed rail · China Railway G-series · ~14:00 (pick the 14:00–15:00 departure at booking)→~18:40 (4 h 10 – 5 h 00) · ¥515.5 second class / ¥824.5 first (≈$76 / $122) — travelchinaguide, as of 2026-08-15 · no fee, but you carry it yourself up and down platforms check price
backup

23+ G-trains a day, last departure 19:00 — if the flight lands late, rebook onto a later train on the 12306 app rather than eating the fare.

2026-11-15 Xi'an North 西安北 → Beijing West 北京西high-speed rail · China Railway G-series · ~09:00→~13:35 (4 h 10 – 5 h 00) · ¥515.5 second class (≈$76) — as of 2026-08-15 · check price
backup

an 08:00 departure buys an extra hour in Beijing; a 10:00 one buys a calmer morning.

2026-11-18 PEK → JFKinternational flight · Korean Air (via Seoul ICN) · ⚠️ time not verified — read it off your ticket, then work backwards→same calendar day in New York (you cross the date line eastbound) · included in the $983 round trip · check price
backup

Leave the hotel at departure minus 4 h 15 (3 h international check-in + 75 min city→PEK T3). Day 8's timeline is written against that formula, not against a guessed time.

Stays

Xi'an — 3 nights (12–15 Nov) · Inside the walls, Bell Tower 钟楼 / South Gate 永宁门

Metro Line 2 runs from directly under Xi'an North station to the Bell Tower, so the arrival with luggage is one seated ride with no changes · the Muslim Quarter, Drum Tower and the wall's South Gate are all a 10-20 min walk · the walled city is lit, busy and safe on foot after dark, and the pavement is flat for suitcase wheels.

Beijing — 3 nights (15–18 Nov) · Qianmen 前门 / Chongwenmen 崇文门, south of Tiananmen

You walk to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City on day 7 instead of fighting the metro at opening time · Line 2 loops to Dongzhimen for both the Great Wall coach and the Airport Express, so days 6 and 8 both start with one ride · the Temple of Heaven is two stops away · Dashilan and Xianyukou put real food one block from the door.

Budget

ItemCostNote
flights (JFK↔PEK round trip, Korean Air via ICN)$983Google Flights cache, as of 2026-08-15 — comparison grade
high-speed rail (Beijing↔Xi'an ×2, second class)¥1,031 ≈ $153¥515.5 each way, as of 2026-08-15
hotels (6 nights: 3 Xi'an + 3 Beijing)≈$70/nightmid band, low season; book refundable now and re-shop 2-3 weeks out
attractions & tickets¥676 ≈ $100Terracotta ¥120 · Huaqing ¥120 · City Wall ¥54 + bike ¥45 · pagoda ¥70 · Temple of Heaven ¥28 · Mutianyu ¥45 + shuttle ¥15 + cable/toboggan ¥130 · Forbidden City ¥40 + gallery ¥10 · Jingshan ¥2
local transport (metro, DiDi, airport + wall coaches)¥750 ≈ $111includes the ¥130-170 airport→Beijing West car on day 2
food (7 days, street + mid-range, one roast duck)¥250/day ≈ $37/dayChina is cheap to eat well in; this band is generous
eSIM + insurance$75roaming eSIM ≈$20 + travel medical ≈$55
buffer (12%)$254FX drift + price moves + the visa fee, which is NOT in this total
TOTAL (excl. Chinese visa fee)≈$2,356⚠️ Add the Chinese L-visa fee — reduced through 2026-12-31, exact amount unverified (the embassy fee page was unreachable twice on 2026-08-15). Budget $140-185 and read the real number at the checklist link.
Total≈ US$2,340 (mid, 1 traveller, excl. visa fee — see budget)

Checklist

  1. Chinese tourist visa (L) — apply at the Chinese Visa Application Service Center via the COVA online form, then submit the passport in person — start 8 weeks out (by 2026-09-16); passport is held for the whole processing window · fee reduced through 2026-12-31 — ⚠️ exact amount unverified, read it at the link (express +$25) link

    Since 2024-01-01 no round-trip ticket, hotel booking, itinerary or invitation letter is required for L visas filed in the US. Most US citizens get a 10-year multiple-entry visa. Passport: 6+ months validity, 2 blank pages.

  2. 12306 account + passport identity verification (China Railway official) — do it now — verification can take days; tickets release 15 days ahead at 14:00 Beijing time · free link

    Beijing↔Xi'an tickets for 2026-11-12 open ~2026-10-28 14:00 CST (2026-10-28 01:00 EST). Visa/Mastercard accepted. Book with the SAME passport you will travel on.

  3. Forbidden City (Palace Museum) timed ticket for 2026-11-17 — 2026-11-10, 20:00 Beijing time = 2026-11-10 07:00 EST — 7 days ahead, to the minute · ¥40 (≈$5.90) off-season 1 Nov–31 Mar link

    Online only, no walk-up window, 40,000/day cap, real-name against your passport number. Bring the original passport to the Meridian Gate. Sets an alarm-clock task, not a to-do.

  4. Tiananmen Square entry reservation for 2026-11-17 (separate from the Palace Museum) — opens ~7 days ahead; book the same morning you book the Palace Museum · free link

    Channel unverified (WeChat mini-program 天安门广场预约 is the usual route and has no English UI). Fallback: skip the square, enter the Palace Museum directly from the east side.

  5. Terracotta Army (Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum) ticket for 2026-11-13 — bookable 30+ days out; buy as soon as the visa is granted · ¥120 (≈$17.80) — includes the three pits + Lishan Garden link

    Original passport required at the gate — photocopies and phone photos are refused.

  6. Shaanxi History Museum free reservation for 2026-11-14 — released daily, gone in minutes · free (base galleries) link

    WeChat official account only, no English version, daily cap. If it fails, the plan swaps in Xi'an Museum / Small Wild Goose Pagoda (free, open Sat) — already written into rain_alt.

  7. Alipay and/or WeChat Pay installed and an international Visa/Mastercard linked — before departure — verification needs a working phone number · free (small FX fee per transaction) link

    China is effectively cashless. Alipay is the more foreigner-friendly of the two. Carry ¥500–1000 cash as a hard backup anyway; legally every vendor must accept it.

  8. Roaming travel eSIM (Airalo / Holafly / Saily style) — NOT a local China SIM — buy before departure, activate on landing · ≈$15–25 for 8 days link

    A roaming eSIM tunnels out of mainland China, so Google Maps / Gmail / WhatsApp keep working. A local SIM sits behind the Great Firewall. See the connectivity note in the country brief — this is the single highest-leverage $20 on the trip.

  9. Travel medical insurance with evacuation cover — buy with the flight · ≈$40–70 for 8 days link

    Chinese public hospitals expect payment up front from foreigners.

  10. Mutianyu access for 2026-11-16 — confirm the Dongzhimen tourist coach is still running — 2 weeks before travel · coach ≈¥60 return; private car ≈¥600–800 return link

    The seasonal 慕田峪 direct coach from Dongzhimen thins out after mid-November. Backup: DiDi/private car (~1 h 20 each way) — book the return leg too, hailing from the wall car park is unreliable.

  11. Re-confirm every opening hour, last-entry time and fee — 2 weeks before travel (≈2026-11-04) ·

    These dates are 3 months out: what is verified below is the SEASONAL PATTERN as of 2026-08-15, not that specific day's published hours. Mutianyu and the Terracotta Army both flip to winter hours on 2026-11-16 — mid-trip.

Before you go

Visa & entry

US passport → a Chinese tourist visa (L) is REQUIRED for this trip. The 240-hour visa-free transit that US citizens can use needs an onward ticket to a THIRD country (A → China → B); JFK → China → JFK is A → China → A and does not qualify. Since 2024-01-01, L-visa applications filed in the US no longer require a round-trip ticket, hotel booking, itinerary or invitation letter; most US applicants receive a 10-year multiple-entry visa. Apply via the COVA online form, then submit the passport in person at the Chinese Visa Application Service Center. Fee reduced through 2026-12-31 ( exact amount unverified — read it at the link on the checklist); express service +$25. Passport: 6+ months validity, 2 blank pages. Start 8 weeks out. Source: Embassy of the PRC in the USA, us.china-embassy.gov.cn, checked 2026-08-15.

Holidays & crowds

date.nager.at/PublicHolidays/2026/CN returns six national holidays for 2026 (1 Jan · 17 Feb Spring Festival · 1 May · 19 Jun Dragon Boat · 25 Sep Mid-Autumn · 1 Oct National Day). NONE falls in 11-18 November — the window is deliberately clean. What the feed cannot see and this plan handles instead: the SEASONAL SWITCH on 15/16 November. Mutianyu, the Terracotta Army and the Shaanxi History Museum all change to shorter winter hours mid-trip, and the plan's times are written per-day against the correct side of that boundary.

Weather

Same dates last year (Open-Meteo archive, 2025-11-11→18): Beijing 4–17 °C by day, −2 to +4 °C at night, zero precipitation all week; Xi'an 6–18 °C by day, −2 to +7 °C at night, 2 mm on the 16th–17th. Expect a cold snap around the 16th–17th (Beijing dropped to 3.7 °C max last year on that date). Daylight is short: Beijing sunrise ≈06:55, sunset ≈16:52. Dress in layers with a windproof shell — the Great Wall ridge and the Xi'an wall are both fully exposed. Beijing air quality can spike in November heating season; pack an N95 if you are sensitive.

Money & tipping

Effectively cashless. Alipay and WeChat Pay both accept a foreign Visa/Mastercard directly, no Chinese bank account; verified foreign users can transact up to $5,000 per payment as of early 2026. Alipay is the easier of the two to set up from abroad. Set BOTH up before you fly — verification wants SMS. Foreign cards work at big hotels and almost nowhere else; ATMs at Bank of China and ICBC take foreign cards. Carry ¥500-1,000 cash as the fallback that never fails.

Connectivity

The single biggest practical trap on this trip, and the one thing the map links in this plan depend on: Google Maps, Google Search, Gmail, WhatsApp, Instagram and X are all blocked inside mainland China. EVERY hop link in this plan is a Google Maps URL and will fail on a Chinese local SIM. Two fixes, in order: (1) buy a ROAMING travel eSIM (Airalo/Holafly/Saily class) which routes through an offshore gateway and leaves Google working — ≈$15-25 for 8 days, this is the recommendation; (2) install a paid VPN BEFORE departure (their websites are blocked from inside). Third, unconditional safety net: the trip KML that ships with this plan (china.kml) opens offline in Maps.me / Organic Maps / Gaia, and Amap 高德 or Baidu Maps are the apps that actually work locally — both have partial English. Do not plan to download anything after you land.

Safety

Beijing and Xi'an are both very safe for a solo traveller at night by any international standard; violent crime against tourists is rare and both cities' central districts are lit and busy until late. The real risks are commercial: the 'tea house' and 'art student' scams around Tiananmen and Wangfujing (a stranger practising English invites you for tea, then the bill is ¥2,000), unlicensed taxis at PEK and Xi'an North (use DiDi or the official rank — never accept a ride from someone approaching you inside the terminal), and fake 游5 buses to the Terracotta Army. Every night in this plan ends within a 15-minute walk or one metro ride of the hotel, and no leg requires a dark walk through an unlit area. Emergency: 110 police, 120 ambulance, 119 fire.

Insurance

Travel medical insurance with evacuation cover, bought with the flight. Chinese public hospitals bill foreigners up front, in cash or by card, before treatment; international clinics (United Family, SOS) are excellent and expensive.

Key decisions

  1. Tourist (L) visa, not visa-free transit. China's 240-hour transit waiver needs a third country (A → China → B). A JFK → China → JFK round trip is A → China → A, so it does NOT qualify — you must hold an L visa before you fly.
  2. Xi'an first, Beijing second. This puts the Great Wall on a Monday and the Forbidden City on a Tuesday: the Palace Museum is closed Mondays anyway, its 40,000/day tickets are far easier to catch on a weekday, and the trip ends in the city that has your international airport.
  3. High-speed rail both ways instead of flying out of Xi'an. 4 h 10–5 h city-centre to city-centre beats a separate-ticket XIY→PEK connection (which would need a 4 h self-transfer buffer) and keeps one round-trip international ticket.
  4. Only two hotels for six nights — no one-night stays, no repacking mid-trip.
  5. The Great Wall day deliberately carries ONE anchor instead of three. Mutianyu is a 2 h ride each way plus 3–4 h on the wall; anything else on that day is a lie.
  6. Food is written as areas (Muslim Quarter, Gui Jie, Qianmen), never as named restaurants — Chinese street-food stalls churn faster than any plan can track.

Verify before booking

  • The Chinese L-visa fee for US citizens — the embassy's fee page returned a socket error twice on 2026-08-15. The reduction to 2026-12-31 and the +$25 express surcharge are confirmed; the base number is not.
  • The return flight's departure time on 2026-11-18 — the flight scanner returns outbound legs only. Day 8 is written as a formula against your ticketed time, not against a guess.
  • Exact G-train numbers and minutes for both Beijing↔Xi'an legs — tickets only release 15 days out, so the plan carries the published corridor (4 h 10 – 5 h 00, 23+ daily departures, ¥515.5) and a departure window rather than an invented train number.
  • The Tiananmen Square reservation channel — the WeChat mini-program is the usual route but it has no English UI and no stable public URL. The fallback (enter the Palace Museum directly) is written into day 7.
  • Whether the seasonal Dongzhimen→Mutianyu coach still runs on 2026-11-16. Checklist item + a private-car backup with a real price.
  • Every opening hour here is the SEASONAL PATTERN as of 2026-08-15, not a published time for that specific date — nobody publishes November hours in August. Re-confirm 2 weeks out.

New York — home on the same calendar day you left Beijing.

18 Nov · PEK → ICN → JFK, landing in New York on the same calendar day. 「秦时明月汉时关」— Wang Changling, Over the Border (Tang).