VIA AIR MAIL

A TRAVEL JOURNAL · 2026

Marigold

10.28 – 11.06

Mexico City · Teotihuacán · Oaxaca
28 October – 6 November 2026

«Marigold» — original coinage; cempasúchil is the flower whose scent is said to walk the dead home

Berlin (BER) → Mexico City ×4n → Oaxaca ×4n → Mexico City ×1n → Berlin

the world is a book, and those
who do not travel
read only one page.

A market stall built entirely of marigolds
Mercado de Jamaicacempasúchil, by the tonne
turn the page

DAY 01 · 10-28 Wed · Mexico City travel day

Touchdown Berlin → Mexico City

Berlin → Mexico City · landing night dawn 06:13 · 06:34 / 18:06 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ Landed at 20:15 into a city of lights that does not end. The airport slip says 180 days; we have ten.

BER →fly 18 h 35 (2 stops)→ MEX Terminal 1 →authorised taxi 45′→ Roma Norte

08:40-20:15
BER → MEX · 18 h 35, 2 stops · see the flights tableest
20:15-21:15
Immigration + bags at AICM Terminal 1
21:15-22:00
Authorised sitio taxi · AICM T1 → Roma Norte · ~14 km · 35-50 min · MX$300-380 fixed-zoneest
22:15-23:00
Late tacos al pastor · Roma Norte / Álvaro Obregón — food area optional
Map pocket · Day 1

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Somewhere west of Ireland
Somewhere west of Irelandeleven hours, two stops

DAY 02 · 10-29 Thu · Mexico City

Mural City Centro Histórico, CDMX

Centro Histórico — the Aztec city under the murals dawn 06:13 · 06:35 / 18:05 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ Three centuries in eight hundred metres: an Aztec pyramid, a ministry courtyard painted floor to ceiling, and Rivera's Rockefeller mural repainted out of spite.

Roma Norte →metro 30′→ Templo Mayor →walk 10′→ SEP murals →walk 18′→ Bellas Artes →walk 12′→ Mercado de San Juan →walk 10′→ Museo Mural Diego Rivera →metro 30′→ Roma Norte

08:30-09:00
Breakfast · café on Álvaro Obregón
09:00-09:30
Metro L1 (dir. Pantitlán) · Insurgentes → Pino Suárez, 6 stops · MX$5 pp · then 700 m on foot to the Zócaloest
09:30-11:15
Templo Mayor + site museum ⚠️ MX$100–210 pp — INAH raised fees on 2026-01-01 and the flagship rate for foreign visitors is now MX$210; this site's own 2026 rate is unverified go first
11:15-11:25
Walk · Templo Mayor → the SEP courtyards · 0.6 km · 10 minest
11:25-12:35
Museo Vivo del Muralismo — the SEP courtyards free
12:35-12:55
Walk · SEP → Palacio de Bellas Artes · 1.3 km · 18 min, along Calle Tacubaest
12:55-14:15
Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes — the mural floor MX$95 pp (+MX$30 per camera); free on Sundays
14:15-14:30
Walk · Bellas Artes → Mercado de San Juan · 0.9 km · 12 minest
14:30-15:45
Lunch · Mercado de San Juan — food area MX$200–400 pp
15:45-15:55
Walk · Mercado de San Juan → Museo Mural Diego Rivera · 0.7 km · 10 minest
15:55-16:55
Museo Mural Diego Rivera MX$45 pp optional
16:55-17:35
Metro L3 + L1 · Hidalgo → Balderas → Insurgentes · MX$5 pp · ~35 minest
19:30-21:00
Dinner · Roma Norte — food area
Map pocket · Day 2

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Palacio de Bellas Artes
Palacio de Bellas Artesthe dome, from the café across

DAY 03 · 10-30 Fri · Mexico City

Sun & Moon Teotihuacán · Mercado de Jamaica

Teotihuacán, then the flower market at dusk dawn 06:14 · 06:35 / 18:05 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ Nobody climbs the pyramids any more. You walk between them instead, two kilometres of it, and that turns out to be the better idea.

Roma Norte →taxi 35′→ Terminal Norte →bus 60′→ Teotihuacán Puerta 1 →bus+taxi 2 h 15→ Mercado de Jamaica →taxi 30′→ Roma Norte

07:15-07:50
Taxi · Roma Norte → Terminal de Autobuses del Norte · ~11 km · 30-40 min · MX$180-250est
08:15-09:15
Autobuses Teotihuacanos · Terminal Norte gate 8 → Teotihuacán Puerta 1 · ~1 h · ≈MX$60 ppest
09:20-12:00
Teotihuacán — Calzada de los Muertos, Pyramid of the Moon plaza, Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl MX$210 pp (INAH foreign-visitor rate, 2026) go first
12:00-12:45
Tepantitla mural complex — the Tlalocan wall paintings included optional
12:45-14:00
Lunch · the comedores at Puerta 1 / La Gruta cave restaurant — food area MX$250–600 pp
14:15-16:30
Bus + taxi · Teotihuacán → Mercado de Jamaica · ~2 h 15 · ≈MX$60 pp + MX$300 taxiest
16:45-18:15
Mercado de Jamaica — the cempasúchil market free; a bunch of marigolds MX$50–120 pinned
18:30-19:05
Taxi · Mercado de Jamaica → Roma Norte · ~7 km · 30-40 min · MX$180-250est
20:00-21:30
Dinner · Roma Norte — food area
Map pocket · Day 3

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Calzada de los Muertos
Calzada de los Muertosthe avenue of the dead, 09:20

DAY 04 · 10-31 Sat · Mexico City

Marigolds Coyoacán · Paseo de la Reforma

Coyoacán, Frida, and the parade that may or may not be today dawn 06:14 · 06:36 / 18:04 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ Booked the 10:00 slot weeks ago because the door sells nothing. By noon the queue is longer than the house.

Roma Norte →taxi 30′→ Mercado de Coyoacán →walk 14′→ Casa Azul →taxi 40′→ Paseo de la Reforma →walk 22′→ Plaza Río de Janeiro →walk 8′→ Roma Norte

08:30-09:05
Taxi · Roma Norte → Mercado de Coyoacán · ~8 km · 30-40 min · MX$180-260est
09:05-09:50
Mercado de Coyoacán + Jardín Centenario ofrendas tostadas MX$60–120 each go first
09:50-10:05
Walk · Mercado de Coyoacán → Museo Frida Kahlo · 1.0 km · 14 min through the Jardín Centenarioest
10:05-11:35
Museo Frida Kahlo · Casa Azul MX$336 pp incl. service fee pinned
11:35-12:20
Taxi · Coyoacán → Glorieta del Ángel de la Independencia, Paseo de la Reforma · ~12 km · 40-55 min · MX$220-320est
12:20-15:30
Desfile de Día de Muertos · Paseo de la Reforma free ⇄ swap:Museo Nacional de Antropología (10 min away) or the Mega Procesión de Catrinas, if the parade is not today
15:30-15:55
Walk · Paseo de la Reforma → Plaza Río de Janeiro, Roma Norte · 1.4 km · 22 minest
16:00-17:30
Roma Norte ofrendas + catrina face-painting, Plaza Río de Janeiro and Álvaro Obregón face-painting MX$150–300 optional
17:30-17:40
Walk · Plaza Río de Janeiro → hotel · 0.6 km · 8 minest
19:30-21:30
Dinner · Roma Norte / Colonia Juárez — food area
Map pocket · Day 4

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Casa Azul, Coyoacán
Casa Azul, Coyoacáncobalt, and a garden of cacti

DAY 05 · 11-01 Sun · Oaxaca travel day

Angelitos Mexico City → Oaxaca

Fly south · Día de los Angelitos, and the first vigil dawn 06:02 · 06:24 / 17:56 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ South at eight in the morning. By noon we are eating meat grilled in front of us in a corridor called the smoke alley, and by eight we are in a cemetery.

Roma Norte →taxi 45′→ AICM →fly 1 h 05→ OAX →taxi 25′→ Oaxaca centro →walk 12′→ Mercado 20 de Noviembre →walk 25′→ Panteón General

05:45-06:30
Taxi · Roma Norte → AICM Terminal 1 · ~14 km · 30-50 min · MX$300-380est
08:00-09:05
AICM Terminal 1 → Aeropuerto de Oaxaca · 1 h 05 · see the flights tableest
09:35-10:15
Taxi · Aeropuerto de Oaxaca → Hotel · Oaxaca centro · ~9 km · 25-35 min · MX$250-350 (or the shared colectivo van, MX$100 pp)est
10:15-10:50
Drop bags, coffee on Alcalá
10:50-11:00
Walk · Hotel · Oaxaca centro → Mercado 20 de Noviembre · 0.8 km · 12 minest
11:00-13:00
Mercado Benito Juárez + Mercado 20 de Noviembre — the Pasillo de Humo MX$150–350 pp for lunch; chapulines and chocolate by weight pinned
13:00-15:00
Zócalo · Catedral · Templo de Santo Domingo · the sand tapestries on Alcalá
15:00-17:30
Rest at the hotel
18:00-19:30
Early dinner · centro — food area
19:30-20:00
Walk · Mercado 20 de Noviembre → Panteón General de Oaxaca · 1.6 km · 25 min east along Av. Independenciaest
20:00-22:30
Panteón General San Miguel — the night of the angelitos free pinned
22:30-23:00
Walk · Panteón General de Oaxaca → Hotel · Oaxaca centro · 1.6 km · 25 minest
Map pocket · Day 5

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

PASILLO
DE HUMO

DAY 06 · 11-02 Mon · Oaxaca

Muertos Xoxocotlán · the comparsa

Día de Muertos — the market, the hill of graves, the comparsa dawn 06:03 · 06:24 / 17:56 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ By daylight the cemetery belongs to the families again — repainting, arranging, eating beside their dead. Ask before you lift a camera. Better still, put it down.

Hotel →taxi 15′→ Mercado de Abastos →taxi 25′→ Panteón de Xoxocotlán →taxi 25′→ Alcalá →walk 20′→ centro comparsa

08:15-09:00
Breakfast · hotel or the Zócalo arcades
09:00-09:15
Taxi · hotel → Mercado de Abastos · ~2.5 km · 12-20 min · MX$60-90est
09:15-11:00
Mercado de Abastos — the wholesale market on Muertos morning free to walk; chocolate, mole paste and mezcal by weight go first
11:00-11:25
Taxi · Mercado de Abastos → Panteón de Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán · ~7 km · 20-30 min · MX$150-220est
11:25-13:00
Panteón de Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán, by daylight free (a donation at the gate is normal) pinned
13:00-13:30
Taxi · Xoxocotlán → centro (Alcalá) · ~7 km · 20-30 min · MX$150-220est
13:30-15:00
Lunch · comedor on Alcalá / Labastida — food area MX$180–400 pp
15:00-17:30
Rest at the hotel
17:30-19:30
Ofrenda and tapete crawl · Alcalá, Santo Domingo, Centro Cultural San Pablo free
19:30-20:00
Walk · Alcalá → the comparsa route (Santo Domingo → Zócalo) · 1.2 km · 20 minest
20:00-23:00
Comparsa / muerteada in the centro free pinned
23:00-23:20
Walk · centro → hotel · 0.9 km · 15 minest
Map pocket · Day 6

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Panteón de Xoxocotlán
Panteón de Xoxocotláncandles, brass, and no hurry

DAY 07 · 11-03 Tue · Oaxaca

Monte Albán Monte Albán · Museo Textil

Monte Albán above the valley, textiles below it dawn 06:03 · 06:24 / 17:56 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ They levelled a whole mountaintop for this. No shade anywhere on it — up early, water, hat.

Hotel →shuttle 30′→ Monte Albán →shuttle 30′→ Mercado 20 de Noviembre →walk 12′→ Museo Textil →walk 5′→ Centro Cultural San Pablo

08:00-08:30
Breakfast · hotel
08:30-09:05
Shuttle · centro → Monte Albán · ~10 km, 25-35 min · ≈MX$110 pp return (Autobuses Turísticos, hourly from Hotel Rivera del Ángel) or MX$250 taxiest
09:05-11:50
Monte Albán MX$210 pp (INAH foreign-visitor rate, 2026; site museum included) go first
11:50-12:25
Shuttle · Monte Albán → Mercado 20 de Noviembre · 25-35 minest
12:30-14:00
Lunch · Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Pasillo de Humo — food area MX$150–300 pp
14:00-14:15
Walk · Mercado 20 de Noviembre → Museo Textil de Oaxaca · 0.9 km · 13 minest
14:15-15:45
Museo Textil de Oaxaca free
15:45-15:52
Walk · Museo Textil → Centro Cultural San Pablo · 0.3 km · 5 minest
15:52-17:00
Centro Cultural San Pablo free optional
17:00-17:10
Walk · Centro Cultural San Pablo → Hotel · Oaxaca centro · 0.3 km · 5 minest
18:30-20:00
Mezcalería crawl · centro (Los Amantes / In Situ / Mezcaloteca class) MX$80–200 per pour; a guided tasting MX$500–900 pp
20:00-21:30
Dinner · centro — food area
Map pocket · Day 7

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Monte Albán
Monte Albána mountain, flattened by hand

DAY 08 · 11-04 Wed · Oaxaca

Loom & Agave Teotitlán · Mitla · palenque

Tlacolula valley — the loom, the mosaic tombs, the still dawn 06:04 · 06:25 / 17:55 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ Ask for natural dyes by name. The cochineal is ground on a stone in front of you and the red it makes does not fade.

Hotel →van 35′→ Árbol del Tule →van 25′→ Teotitlán del Valle →van 45′→ Mitla →van 20′→ mezcal palenque →van 60′→ Oaxaca

08:00-08:30
Breakfast · hotel; the van collects from the centro
08:30-09:05
Small-group van · Oaxaca → Santa María del Tule · ~12 km · 30-40 minest
09:05-09:45
Árbol del Tule MX$20 pp optional
09:45-10:15
Van · Santa María del Tule → Teotitlán del Valle · ~18 km · 25-35 minest
10:15-11:45
Teotitlán del Valle — a family weaving workshop free demonstration; rugs MX$1,500–15,000 pinned
11:45-12:30
Van · Teotitlán del Valle → Mitla · ~30 km · 40-50 minest
12:30-13:45
Mitla — Zona Arqueológica MX$210 pp (INAH foreign-visitor rate, 2026)
13:45-14:10
Van · Mitla → the palenque on the Hierve el Agua road · ~11 km · 20-30 minest
14:10-15:30
Comida + mezcal palenque with tasting — food area included in most tours; a bottle MX$400–1,500
15:30-17:00
Hierve el Agua — the petrified waterfalls MX$70 pp + local access fees optional
17:00-18:30
Van · Hierve el Agua → Oaxaca centro · ~70 km · 75-90 minest
19:30-21:00
Dinner · Jalatlaco / centro — food area
Map pocket · Day 8

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Teotitlán del Valle
Teotitlán del Vallecochineal, indigo, four generations

DAY 09 · 11-05 Thu · Oaxaca → Mexico City travel day

Painted Lane Jalatlaco · Oaxaca → CDMX

Painted walls in Jalatlaco, then north again dawn 06:16 · 06:38 / 18:02 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ Every wall repainted often enough that no map survives a year. Start at San Matías and get lost on purpose — the flight is not until half past two.

Hotel →walk 12′→ Jalatlaco →walk 18′→ Mercado Benito Juárez →taxi 30′→ OAX →fly 1 h 10→ MEX →taxi 55′→ Roma Norte

08:00-08:30
Breakfast · hotel; bags packed and left at reception
08:30-08:42
Walk · hotel → Barrio de Jalatlaco · 0.8 km · 12 minest
08:42-10:15
Barrio de Jalatlaco — street art and the cobbled lanes free go first
10:15-10:35
Walk · Jalatlaco → Mercado Benito Juárez · 1.3 km · 20 minest
10:35-11:45
Mercado Benito Juárez — last shopping mole paste MX$120–250/kg, chocolate MX$100–200, mezcal MX$300+
12:00-12:45
Collect bags · light lunch near the hotel — food area
12:45-13:20
Taxi · Mercado Benito Juárez → Aeropuerto de Oaxaca · ~9 km · 25-35 min · MX$250-350est
14:30-15:40
Aeropuerto de Oaxaca → AICM Terminal 1 · 1 h 10 · see the flights tableest
16:15-17:20
Authorised sitio taxi · AICM Terminal 1 → Hotel · Roma Norte · ~14 km · 40-60 min · MX$300-380est
19:00-21:00
Dinner · Roma Norte — food area
Map pocket · Day 9

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

Barrio de Jalatlaco
Barrio de Jalatlacono guide stays accurate here

DAY 10 · 11-06 Fri · Mexico City → Berlin travel day

Homeward Chapultepec → Berlin

One last room in the Anthropology museum, then home dawn 06:16 · 06:38 / 18:01 · CST · sunrise-sunset.org

✎ One museum, three halls, then the gate. Teotihuacán, the Mexica, and Oaxaca — the same ten days, laid out in glass cases.

Roma Norte →taxi 20′→ Museo Nacional de Antropología →walk 14′→ Polanco lunch →taxi 25′→ hotel →taxi 55′→ MEX

08:15-08:50
Breakfast · Roma Norte café
08:50-09:15
Taxi · Roma Norte → Museo Nacional de Antropología · ~4 km · 15-25 min · MX$120-180est
09:15-12:30
Museo Nacional de Antropología MX$210 pp (2026 rate); free on Sundays go first
12:30-12:45
Walk · Museo Nacional de Antropología → Polanco (Campos Elíseos) · 1.0 km · 14 minest
12:45-14:00
Lunch · Polanco / Chapultepec — food area MX$250–600 pp
14:00-14:30
Taxi · Polanco → hotel, collect bags · ~5 km · 20-30 min · MX$140-200est
15:30-16:30
Authorised taxi · Roma Norte → AICM · ~14 km · 45-70 min · MX$300-380est
16:30-19:30
Airport · 3 h international check-in buffer
19:30
MEX → BER · arrives 07 Nov · see the flights tableest
Map pocket · Day 10

The map is glued in when this pocket is opened online; offline, use the ticket-stub links below.

The wing over the Atlantic
Home, the long way round
SUN
STONE

Ticket wallet

4 flight tickets filed by date on this page — prices are as of the check date; re-check before ticketing.

international flight · ⚠️ pick at the link — best cache rows were Lufthansa/United and British Airways/American, all 2 stops

BER → MEX

2026-10-28 · 08:40 → 20:15 same day (local, UTC−6)

flight_scan cache 2026-08-15: €1,703 round-trip TOTAL for 2 adults on the 08:40 Lufthansa/United row (18 h 35); cheapest row €1,555 total (British Airways/American, 06:35→20:15, 20 h 40). ⚠️ comparison grade — verify at the link · 1 checked bag pp is normally included on LH/BA long-haul economy — confirm the fare family before buying; a Basic/Light fare is cabin-only

Backup

BER→FRA→MEX on Lufthansa (one stop, ~14 h total) — not in the cache the scanner saw, price it by hand; it is the shape you actually want for a 20:15 arrival.

domestic flight · Aeroméxico (T2) / Volaris / VivaAerobús (T1) — ⚠️ pick at the link

MEX → OAX

2026-11-01 · ≈08:00 → ≈09:05 (1 h 05)

⚠️ unverified for this date — MX$1,500–3,500 pp is the honest festival band; off-peak the same route sells for a fifth of that · Volaris/Viva sell cabin-only fares — a 25 kg checked bag is MX$500–900 per leg. Aeroméxico's Clásica includes one.

Backup

ADO GL/Platino, Terminal TAPO or Terminal Norte → Oaxaca ADO, ~6.5–7 h, MX$800–1,300 pp, several departures incl. overnight — https://www.ado.com.mx/

domestic flight · Aeroméxico / Volaris / VivaAerobús — ⚠️ pick at the link

OAX → MEX

2026-11-05 · ≈14:30 → ≈15:40 (1 h 10)

⚠️ unverified — MX$900–2,200 pp; the 5th is past the peak and should be cheaper than the outbound · as above

Backup

ADO GL 5 Nov morning (~6.5 h) arriving CDMX late afternoon — only if the flight prices are absurd; it burns the whole day.

international flight · return half of the BER↔MEX round trip

MEX → BER

2026-11-06 · ⚠️ ≈19:30 assumed — Europe-bound departures from MEX cluster 18:00–21:30; the scanner does not show return-leg times → arrives BER on 07 Nov, mid-morning to early afternoon

included in the €1,555–1,815 round-trip total above · as the outbound

Backup

Where we sleep

Mexico City · 4 nights (28 Oct – 1 Nov) + 1 night (5–6 Nov) · Roma Norte (first choice) or Condesa

Walkable, tree-lined, lit and busy until late, so no evening on this trip needs a dark walk · Metro L1 at Insurgentes puts the Centro Histórico 30 minutes away without a change · the restaurant density means the two nights you come home late still have dinner · it is 20 minutes from the Anthropology museum on the last morning and roughly equidistant from Coyoacán and the airport

Oaxaca · 4 nights (1–5 Nov) · Centro histórico around Santo Domingo, or Jalatlaco

Everything on days 5–9 except Monte Albán and the valley starts on foot from here · the comparsas pass through the centro and the Panteón General is a 25-minute walk · Jalatlaco is quieter, has the murals on its doorstep and is still inside the walkable ring · both mean you can drink mezcal and not need a car

Handwritten ledger

ItemCost (pp)Notes
international flights (BER↔MEX, 2 adults)€780–910flight_scan Google cache 2026-08-15, round-trip total for 2; all rows were 2 stops — a 1-stop Lufthansa itinerary may sit above this band
domestic flights (MEX↔OAX, 2 legs × 2 adults)€125–290⚠️ unverified — 1 Nov is peak festival demand. ADO GL both ways would be ≈€85–130 for two instead, at the cost of 13 hours
hotels (9 nights, 2 adults, one room)€525–800CDMX 5 nights €100–160 · Oaxaca 3–4 Nov €110–160 · Oaxaca 1–2 Nov at Muertos pricing €180–280
local transport (taxis, metro, colectivos, Teotihuacán and Monte Albán shuttles)€90Metro MX$5 a ride; the airport and cemetery taxis are what actually costs money
site and museum admissions€67Teotihuacán MX$210 · Templo Mayor ⚠️~MX$210 · Bellas Artes MX$95 · Museo Mural MX$45 · Casa Azul MX$336 · Monte Albán MX$210 · Mitla MX$210 · Tule MX$20 · Hierve el Agua MX$70 · Antropología MX$210; Museo Textil and the SEP murals free
Tlacolula valley guided tour (4 Nov)€46–71MX$900–1,400 pp including site fees and comida
food and drink (10 days)€380–480≈MX$750–950 pp/day — market breakfasts and comidas, one proper dinner a day, mezcal on top
eSIM + travel-medical insurance with repatriation€35–60eSIM €5–25 pp for the ten days; insurance €40–90 for two
buffer (12%)≈€260Muertos-week surge on the two variable lines (Oaxaca beds, 1 Nov flights) is where a plan like this actually breaks
TOTAL€2,200–3,150midpoint ≈ €5,300 for two, all in. FX €1 = MXN 19.6592 (ECB via frankfurter.dev, 2026-08-14)
Total€4,400 – €6,300 for two, all in (midpoint ≈ €5,300)

Pre-trip checklist

  1. Oaxaca hotel, 1–5 Nov (4 nights) — refundable if possible by: TODAY. This is the single most time-critical line on the page. · €140–230/night for two on 1–2 Nov, €90–130 on 3–4 Nov link

    Guides written for the 2026 season say to book Oaxaca by May 2026 and that centro is largely gone by September, with rates 2–3× normal for 31 Oct – 2 Nov. Booking in mid-August means you are late: take Jalatlaco or the Santo Domingo fringe rather than holding out for the Zócalo.

  2. MEX→OAX (1 Nov) and OAX→MEX (5 Nov) domestic flights by: this week — 1 Nov is the single busiest domestic day of the Mexican year · ⚠️ MX$1,500–3,500 pp per leg at festival pricing — check, do not assume the €50 fares you see for a Tuesday in February link

    Aeroméxico (T2), Volaris and VivaAerobús (T1) all fly it. Check which terminal before booking the airport taxi. Backup: ADO GL from Terminal TAPO / Terminal Norte, ~6.5–7 h, MX$800–1,300 pp — book that on ado.com.mx, not a reseller.

  3. Travel-medical insurance for two, WITH repatriation cover (Auslandsreise-Kranken- und Rückholversicherung) by: the moment you book the flights · €40–90 for two for ten days link

    The Auswärtiges Amt is unusually blunt about this one: private hospitals in Mexico expect payment in cash on the spot, and consular assistance is billed back to the traveller. This is not the line to skip.

  4. Museo Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul) timed ticket, Sat 31 Oct, 10:00 slot for two by: as soon as the date opens — at minimum 1–2 weeks ahead · MX$320 + MX$16 service = MX$336 pp (≈ €17) link

    Online only — the museum no longer sells at the door, so turning up without a QR code means not going in. The ticket also covers Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli. Closed Mondays.

  5. International BER↔MEX for two by: within 2–3 weeks; Muertos week is a demand peak on the Europe–Mexico market · €1,555–1,815 total for two, round trip (Google cache via flight_scan, 2026-08-15) link

    Every row in the cache was 2 stops. Also price the obvious 1-stop shape by hand — BER→FRA→MEX on Lufthansa — before you buy; the scanner did not surface it.

  6. Mexico City hotel, 28 Oct – 1 Nov and 5–6 Nov (Roma Norte / Condesa) by: 4–6 weeks out; re-shop 2–3 weeks before travel · €100–160/night for two link

    Book the 5–6 Nov night as a separate reservation in the same hotel if you can — the same front desk on the way out is worth more than €10 of savings when you are leaving at 15:30 with luggage.

  7. Tlacolula valley small-group tour, Wed 4 Nov (Tule · Teotitlán del Valle · Mitla · mezcal palenque) by: 2–3 weeks out; free cancellation up to 24 h is standard · ≈ MX$900–1,400 pp including site fees and a comida link

    Confirm whether the itinerary depends on Hierve el Agua — access there has been shut by community disputes more than once. Take a tour that still runs Mitla and Teotitlán if it is closed.

  8. Re-check the CDMX Desfile de Día de Muertos date and route by: mid-September 2026, when the Secretaría de Cultura CDMX publishes it · free link

    Not published as of 2026-08-15. History says a Saturday in the window — 31 Oct or 7 Nov 2026. 7 Nov is one day after you fly home, so day 4 is written to be a good day either way.

  9. Passports: 6 months' validity beyond entry; nothing else to file by: check now — a renewal takes weeks · — link

    German passport = visa-free up to 180 days. Arriving by air there is NO paper FMM any more: entry is the digital FMMd, and biometric German passports can use the E-Gates at AICM. Do not buy an 'FMM tourist card' from a website — by air it does not exist.

  10. eSIM for two + small cash float in pesos by: the week before · ≈ €5–25 pp for 5–10 GB; withdraw MX$4,000–6,000 on arrival link

    Markets, cemeteries, colectivos, comparsa food stalls and tips are all cash. Restaurant tipping is 10–15%.

  11. Re-confirm opening hours and fees two weeks before travel by: mid-October 2026 · — link

    INAH raised its fees on 1 January 2026 and can do it again; museum hours around 1–2 November shift locally every year. Everything on this page is a pattern verified 2026-08-15, not a date-specific confirmation.

Before you go

Visa & entry

German passport = visa-free for tourism up to 180 days; the passport must be valid at least six months and a Personalausweis is not accepted. Arriving by air there is no paper FMM any more — Mexico switched to the digital FMMd, and at AICM adult German biometric passports can use the E-Gates, which print a slip with the entry date and the number of days granted. Photograph that slip; it is your permit. The paid paper tourist card only exists for land crossings, so ignore the websites selling you an 'FMM' for a flight. (Auswärtiges Amt, Reise- und Sicherheitshinweise Mexiko, read 2026-08-15 — re-check before booking.)

Holidays, crowds & the parade

No federal public holiday falls inside 28 Oct – 6 Nov 2026 (date.nager.at, MX 2026: the nearest is Día de la Revolución on 16 November). Día de Muertos itself, 1–2 November, is NOT a statutory rest day — banks and government offices largely work, museums keep normal hours — but it is the single largest cultural mobilisation of the Mexican year: domestic flights, intercity buses and Oaxaca hotels behave like a holiday even though the calendar says otherwise. The CDMX Desfile de Día de Muertos date for 2026 was not published as of 2026-08-15; expect a Saturday (31 Oct or 7 Nov), confirmed 4–6 weeks ahead at cultura.cdmx.gob.mx.

Weather

Same dates last year (Open-Meteo archive, 2025-10-28 → 11-06): Mexico City 24 / 10 °C with 0.3 mm of rain across ten days; Oaxaca 26 / 12 °C with none at all. This is the best window of the Mexican year — the rains have stopped and the heat has not started. About 11 h of daylight, sunrise ~07:10 and sunset ~18:00 in CDMX. Two things the averages hide: Mexico City sits at 2,240 m so the first day feels thin and the nights are genuinely cold (a jacket, not a jumper), and Monte Albán at midday has no shade whatsoever.

Money & tipping

Peso, cash-first outside restaurants and hotels: markets, cemeteries, colectivos, comparsa food stalls, church donations and every tip are cash. Withdraw at bank ATMs (Santander, Banorte, BBVA) rather than the standalone kiosks in tourist streets, and decline the machine's own currency conversion. Cards are fine in Roma Norte and central Oaxaca restaurants. Tipping: 10–15% in restaurants (check whether propina is already on the bill), MX$20–50 for a taxi you liked, MX$50/day housekeeping.

Connectivity

eSIM before you fly — Telcel has by far the best coverage in the Oaxacan valleys and most travel eSIMs ride on it; €5–25 pp buys 5–10 GB for ten days. Wi-Fi is good in cafés and hotels in both cities and absent in the cemeteries and at Teotihuacán. Plug type A/B, 127 V — German devices need a plug adapter, and cheap hair dryers do not like the voltage.

Insurance

Travel-medical insurance with repatriation cover (Auslandsreise-Kranken- und Rückholversicherung) is the one non-optional purchase. The Auswärtiges Amt states plainly that private hospitals expect payment on the spot in cash and that any consular assistance is billed back to the traveller. €40–90 for two for ten days. Altitude, street food and a lot of mezcal are the three realistic claim causes on this itinerary, in that order.

Safety

The Auswärtiges Amt places no blanket travel warning on either Mexico City or the state of Oaxaca (its Oaxaca warning is for the Guatemalan border strip, which this trip never approaches). What the plan does about it rather than warning you: every night block ends in a lit, busy, walkable neighbourhood or a taxi from the door — Roma Norte and the Oaxaca centro both stay awake — and the two cemetery nights are done with the crowd, not after it. Practical: pickpocketing and phone-snatching are the real risks, so a front pocket in the Abastos and Jamaica markets; take authorised sitio taxis or app cars, never a street taxi hailed at the airport (Uber and DiDi have been barred from AICM pickups since March 2026); do not leave a drink unattended in a mezcalería.

Baggage

Two checked bags plus cabin. Where the big bag physically is: hotel in Roma Norte on days 2–4 (Teotihuacán and Coyoacán are day trips), flown to Oaxaca on day 5, in the Oaxaca hotel on days 6–8, back to the Roma Norte hotel on day 9, and left at reception on the morning of day 10 while you do the museum. Nothing on this trip needs an overnight bag. Buying mezcal: hold baggage only, 1 L pp duty-free into the EU, and pad the bottle — the Oaxaca market will wrap it in newspaper and call it done.

Día de Muertos playbook

The two cities peak on different nights, which is the whole reason this route works. Mexico City: the Saturday parade on Reforma (date unconfirmed), ofrendas in Coyoacán and Roma Norte, and the cempasúchil canyon at the Mercado de Jamaica in the last week of October. Oaxaca: 1 November is Día de los Angelitos with the Comparsa de Catrinas and the first cemetery vigils, 2 November is the day itself, when the panteones fill from the afternoon and the comparsas escort the souls back after dark. Manners matter more than logistics here: this is a family occasion, not a show. Ask before you photograph anyone, buy your candles and marigolds from the stalls at the cemetery gate, accept the mezcal if it is offered, and do not step over a grave.

Key decisions

  1. Round trip BER↔MEX, not open-jaw. Oaxaca (OAX) has no useful intercontinental service, so an open jaw would mean an OAX→MEX self-transfer on a separate ticket on departure day — the one shape that turns a missed domestic hop into a missed transatlantic flight. Cost of the decision: one night back in Mexico City on 5 Nov.
  2. Oaxaca gets the Día de Muertos nights (1–2 Nov), Mexico City gets the parade weekend (31 Oct). The two cities peak on different days, so this is the rare case where you can have both: CDMX's Saturday desfile and Coyoacán ofrendas, then Oaxaca's 1 Nov comparsa and the 1–2 Nov cemetery vigils.
  3. Fly CDMX↔Oaxaca, do not take ADO. ADO GL/Platino is 6.5–7 h each way and would eat a whole festival day in each direction; the flight is 1 h 05 and about 3 h 30 door to door. ADO stays on the page as the budget backup (and as the fallback if the 1 Nov flights price out) — it is comfortable, it is just slow.
  4. Teotihuacán yes, Puebla no. Puebla is a good day but it would have cost either a Muertos night in Oaxaca or the Coyoacán day; Teotihuacán is 1 h out of the city and also feeds the mural interest (the Tepantitla Tlalocan wall paintings are inside the site).
  5. 2 Nov is deliberately half-empty in the afternoon. The day starts at the Abastos market at 09:00 and ends at a cemetery close to midnight; a normal three-anchor afternoon in between would have made the night unbearable.
  6. No car at any point. The Tlacolula valley (Teotitlán del Valle · Mitla · mezcal) is done as a small-group guided tour, which is also the only way to see a working weaving workshop and a palenque without a rental.

Verify before booking

  • Flight prices and times. flight_scan returned Google's cache for BER↔MEX round trips (€1,555–1,815 total for 2 adults, queried 2026-08-15) and every row was 2 stops; the obvious 1-stop Lufthansa BER–FRA–MEX shape did not appear. Return-leg departure times are not visible to the scanner at all, so the 19:30 on day 10 is an assumption.
  • MEX↔OAX domestic fares for 1 and 5 November. No live quote was obtained; the MX$1,500–3,500 pp band is a festival-demand estimate, not a price.
  • The 2026 date of the Mexico City Desfile de Día de Muertos. Not published as of 2026-08-15; day 4 is built to work whether it lands on 31 October or 7 November.
  • Templo Mayor's own 2026 admission fee. INAH's flagship foreign-visitor rate is MX$210 after the 1 January 2026 increase, but the site-specific figure was not confirmed.
  • Palacio Nacional (Rivera's stairway murals) was deliberately left off the itinerary: sources disagree on whether it opens Monday-to-Sunday or closes Mondays, and public access has been restricted since it became the presidential residence. The Museo Vivo del Muralismo at the SEP carries the same argument with a verified free entry, so it took the slot.
  • Centro Cultural San Pablo's opening hours.
  • Comparsa and muerteada routes and start times in Oaxaca on 2 November — set neighbourhood by neighbourhood only days ahead. Ask the hotel on 1 November.
  • Panteón General and Xoxocotlán opening hours on the Muertos nights: the municipality sets them yearly and 'until about 22:00' is the best available answer.
  • Hierve el Agua access on 4 November. Community disputes have closed it repeatedly; treat it as optional and confirm with the tour operator.
  • All hotel bands. They come from 2026 price guides and Muertos-week reporting, not from scraped quotes for these dates; no OTA was queried.
  • Every hop marked (est) is a straight-line or typical-traffic estimate, not a Google Maps lookup. Mexico City traffic can double any of the taxi hops.
  • Museum and site hours are seasonal patterns verified on 2026-08-15, not date-specific confirmations — nobody publishes 2 November's hours in August. Re-confirm two weeks out.

Berlin. The marigolds are still in the suitcase.

06 Nov, out of Mexico City after dark · 07 Nov, into Berlin in the rain — eleven hours west, given back in one night.

Mexico 2026 — Mexico City · Teotihuacán · Oaxaca (Día de Muertos)
2 adults, German passports, no car (buses, flights, taxis and one guided valley tour) · FX €1 = MXN 19.6592 = US$1.1567 (ECB via frankfurter.dev, 2026-08-14)
2026-08-15 · self-checked: 8 issues found and fixed — (1) day 5 mixed an intercity flight with 3 anchors, the Zócalo/Santo Domingo block demoted to a free stroll; (2) Museo Frida Kahlo closes Mondays and sells no counter tickets, moved to Sat 31 Oct with a timed online slot on the checklist; (3) Museo Vivo del Muralismo closes Tuesdays — the Centro day sits on Thursday; (4) Museo Nacional de Antropología and Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes both close Mondays, and the only Monday in the window (2 Nov) is spent in Oaxaca, so nothing collides; (5) the CDMX Día de Muertos parade date is NOT published for 2026 — day 4 was rebuilt so it works with or without it (swap tag + rain_alt); (6) day 3's Teotihuacán → Mercado de Jamaica return was two hop rows against one stop-pair and would have shifted every later map link, merged into one row; (7) departure day had the museum running to 13:30 against a 19:30 international departure — museum now hard-stops at 12:30 and the airport transfer carries a 3 h international buffer plus real traffic time; (8) day 8's Hierve el Agua has been closed by community disputes more than once, so it is tagged [skippable] and the tour is booked for the Mitla/Teotitlán half.
Sun times: sunrise-sunset.org · Photos and stickers are AI-generated, journal illustration only · Prices as live on the booking channel